Monday 25 June 2018

2017 South Australia Trip - Birds - The Birdsville Track, The Flinders Ranges & Eyre Peninsula


My South Australian birding tour started down the Birdsville track.
I had researched eBird extensively plus the Dolby & Clarke book "Finding Aust Birds" & I created  a 12 page word document of where to find certain species through out the state. I had back up sites if I failed at a site.
The Birdsville Track is an iconic gravel road for 4x4 drivers. It is a means of travelling a more direct route from Adelaide to far western Qld & the Simpson Desert route. The road can get  quite boggy in places with a small amount of rain due to clay soil. We also had a small book / map of the Birdsville Track as reference with GpS readings & distances for bores, dams, stations, communication towers, service stations, creeks / river crossings, camp sites & much more.
We were now near the end of August & the outback was very dry. There were patches of bull dust holes along the road, but the roads department had placed road hazard signs to alert drivers to avoid the holes that can cause significant damage to vehicles.

We stopped around 91kms south of Birdsville for me to search for Grey Grasswrens. This is 1 of the more reliable areas to find this specie. The area is part of the Goyder Lagoon system & has lignum & for this visit Goyder Lagoon was completely dry.

I only had to walk around for 10 mins before I located a group of 7 birds that popped up in response to short playback. The piece of lignum they were in was right next to the road. I got a photo at 60m distance & as I walked closer they vanished.

Further down the the Birdsville Track not far from a bore & an old car wreck I located a flock of Flock Bronzewings. It is difficult to get close to these birds as they are quite timid.

I managed a not so sharp photo of a White-backed Swallow.


It is worth a stop at Two Wells Dam to look for birds. It is a water point for cattle, but a mini wetland with birdlife. I saw regular waterfowl there.

Our 1st nights camp was at Tipilla Creek free camp. This area is almost next to the road that is the Inside Track. Inside Track was closed 2017 trip. Many people find Grey Grasswrens along the Inside Track.
There was no water in Tipilla Creek, but the birding was ok there.

Mirra Mitta Creek & Bore is further down the track. At the road point it is Mirra Mitta creek.
You can see there's still water in the centre of the road. I think Mirra Mitta Creek is an overflow of Lake Howitt. From what I could see, Lake Howitt appeared to be dry.
The Bore flows into a dam that overflows into a wetland. The wetland is quite green, but I don't know how much the bore affects the lagoons nearer to the road.
I spent quite some time traipsing around the eastern side of the road.


 There were quite a few Orange Chats coming into the muddy margins.

Australaisan Grebe

L-R - Pink-eared Duck, Australasian Shoveler, Grey Teal


Red-kneed Dotterel

This Curlew Sandpiper was a surprise sighting.

Also there was a very large flock of Little Corellas

Mirra Mitta Bore & the holding dam is about 200 m further along the road.

You can see the wetland the overflow has created.

I saw a family of 4 Brolga on the grassy wetland.

Australasian Grebe in the dam.

Also on the grassy wetland were about 40 Black-tailed Native-hens.

The bore is actually 200 m upstream of the dam. The bore water is boiling on entry to the surface & slowly cools as is moves towards the dam. The stream of water has created it's own little wetland before flowing into the dam.
I was quite surprised to see this Australian Spotted Crake feeding in the wider part of that wetland.

About 1/2 way down the Birdsville Track is Mungarannie. It is a pub with meals, basic food supplies, fuel & a large campground with amenities.
Mungarannie sits along side the Derwent River & a wetland had been created, but sadly this year the wetland was getting quite dry.

Newly named Australasian ( Purple) Swamphen seen at Mungarannie wetland.

I found a small group of Eyrean Grasswrens next to the sand dune behind the pub. There's a walking track beside the river & then go through the fence.

At Mungarannie hubby unhitched the caravan so I could drive about 10 kms or so up the Kalamurina Rd. I was hoping to see a Grey Falcon on the communication towers down the Birdsville Track.
I'd seen none thus far & didn't see any on the tower along Kalamurina Rd either.

I did find several Cinnamon Quail-thrush though.


Also there was a Nankeen Kestrel.

We stopped at the area where the Cooper Creek crosses the Birdsville Track. The Cooper Creek was dry, but the birding was still very good.

Bluebonnet

Peaceful Dove

Horsfields Bronze-cuckoo

We stopped at Clayton's Crossing with the intention of camping there for the night. The camp ground looked great with a bush spa & a flushing toilet, but the "wetland" I was hoping for was completely dry. I spent an hr walking around whilst hubby changed a car tyre that had only just been damaged  as we pulled over to go into the camp ground.

Further down Birdsville Track was Dulkarinna Creek that crossed the road at Dulkarinna Station. There was shallow water flowing over the road & after passing it I was disappointed we didn't stop for me to have a look there.

We stopped at Lake Harry Ruins free camp instead. Lake Harry was dry too.

It was a short drive to Marree. We spent several hours there. We replaced the cut tyre from the previous day & then hubby found that 1 of the caravan tyres needed replacing. It was an original tyre of 7 yrs age & travel, so not too sorry to have it replaced apart from the extra price we paid for it though.
We had a look around town as well, especially at the hotel where there's a museum of Australia's longest outback postal service.  I also spoke to the owner of Mt Lyndhurst station to get permission to visit the area around the Rusty Car in a day or so.

Sadly 20 kms south of Marree we got another tyre puncture in a previously punctured tyre in Qld. Hubby had had enough of tyre changing this past 24 hrs. Our tyre pressures were down & we weren't driving fast, so we were unlucky with these punctures.

We stayed at Lyndhurst that night. The Lyndhurst pub serves good meals.

Next day we stopped at Mt Lyndhurst Station near the Rusty Car precinct. This is private property, so it's courtesy to get permission to traipse around on the property.

Whilst looking for Thick-billed Grasswrens I found Chirupping Wedgebills.

Rufous Fieldwren was there too.

I didn't find the Thick-billed Gw despite several hours searching in various locations.

We stopped at Lyndhurst hotel again for an hour or so. The publican told me there was a dam at the back of the hotel. Wastewater Treatment Plant dam. They mentioned there was a Freckled Duck there.
He was right, 1 Freckled Duck with a Black Swan.

Also there was a female Musk Duck.


We drove south, to Leigh Creek for groceries top up & fuel. I didn't know it at the time, but Thick-billed Grasswrens can be seen at Leigh Creek Coal Retention Dams.

We then headed west towards Arkaroola in the Gammon Ranges. Gammon Ranges is the northern most section of the Flinders Ranges.
We stopped along the road at Illowie Gorge for lunch & a walk. A family of Emu of  Dad & 7 chicks.

Southern Whiteface were also there.

We booked 3 nights at the Arkaroola Camp ground. Birding didn't take a back seat as I played tourist during our 10 day Flinders Ranges experience from Arkaroola to Rawnsley Station much further south.

Another Emu & his brood of chicks. We were to see dozens of Emu & chicks over the next 6 weeks.


Inland thornbill

White-browed Babbler

Red-capped Robin

Grey-fronted Honeyeater

White-winged Triller was seen along Blinman-Balcanoona Rd

More White-browed Babblers were seen along the road into Brachina Gorge.

Mulga Parrot were in the same area.

Black-eared Cuckoo was there too.

An Elegant Parrot flew into a tree near our camp spot at Brachina Gorge.

We moved camp to Willow Springs station stay for me to be not far from another Grasswren at Stokes Hill.

A Brown Falcon flying overhead.

Stokes Hill is the place to go to to locate Short-tailed Grasswren.  If you're a birder looking for this specie, check with the staff at Willow Springs Homestead for the latest GPS locations as birders usually share this information with them to pass onto other birders.

This Elegant Parrot was amongst a group coming down to the rocky ground to feed.

Australian Pipit

It took me 2 visits to locate 2 Short-tailed Grasswrens 1/2 way down a slope, well before "1 tree hill"


We stayed at Rawnsley Station to visit Wilpena Pound.
Laughing Kookaburra

Australian Ringneck

We moved further south to stay at Port Augusta.  I visited Arid Lands Botanical Gardens whilst hubby played a game of golf.
The Botanical Gardens are quite large & it took several hours to get around.

Nearer to the Red Cliffs of Spencer Gulf I saw this Spotted Harrier fly past.

Not far from the cafe are a few Common Blackbirds.

In the sand dune area Blue-winged Parrot landed for a short minute & were gone again.

Also in the Sand dune area were several Chirruping Wedgebills.

White-fronted Honeyeaters were also there.

I wanted to explore most of the Eyre Peninsula even though we had been there as tourists 6 years ago.
As we drove west we stopped at Lake Gilles Conservation Park for 2 nights. I was in particular looking for the newly split Copperback Quail-thrush. Sadly I didn't find any despite > 15 hrs searching in several locations on many outings.
Camping is allowed near the lake.

Young Pallid Cuckoo was near our camp spot


I walked amongst the mallee within 3 kms of the lake.

Golden Whistler

Female Golden Whistler

White-eared Honeyeater

Western Yellow Robin were a new specie to my life list.

Red-capped Robin

Yellow-plumed Honeyeater

Grey Currawong

Southern Whiteface

Female Mulga Parrot

Dusky Woodswallow

Blue-breasted Fairywren



Rufous Treecreeper

Nankeen Kestrel

We drove through Kimba & arrived at Streaky Bay.

Immature Pacific Gull

We drove 2 loop routes to do some sightseeing.
In a small lake south of the town were a few waterfowl including this Australasian Grebe

Also there were a family of  Australian Shelduck. This is the male bird.

2 of the 6 ducklings

On rocky shore line on the loop road north of Streaky Bay were several waders including Ruddy Turnstone. They blend in very well with their surroundings.

Pacific Gull

We drove further south via Murphy's Haystacks that were about 20km or so from Streaky Bay.
The haystacks are a bunch of granite rocks amongst sheep & grain farming paddocks. Murphys Haystacks is fenced off & public access tourist spot.

In the private paddock at the back of Murphy's Haystacks were a family of Banded Lapwings. They had 2 chicks that I could see. These birds were 70 m from the fence, so there's plenty of camera zoom & cropping here.


We arrived at Venus Bay caravan park. I wanted to twitch a vagrant specie from North America.
The Laughing Gull arrived sometime around the end of July 2016. Hundreds of birders went to Venus Bay to see the bird. He enjoyed his stay & eventually left approximately 15 months later.
I saw him about 1 month before he flew off to be not seen again. His head is starting to colour up during my visit. A month later & before he left his head was completely black, a sign of breeding plumage.

Also at Venus Bay were Sooty Oystercatchers

Pied Oystercatcher

Pied Cormorant

Pelican & Crested Terns in the background.

Red-capped Plover

On the next morning there I was out looking for any different species of birds to the previous day & to my surprise I spotted a Buff-banded Rail in the vegetation close to the shore bank. It darted in & out of the vegetation whilst feeding, so this is a record photo. This specie hadn't been listed at this site or much of the Eyre Peninsula on eBird before my sighting.

We next drove south to Coffin Bay. We loved it there when visiting in 2011. Coffin Bay is famous for freshly grown Oyster farms, so hubby bought a few for his dinner.

I walked around a reserve near 1 of the local taverns.

New Holland Honeyeaters were almost everywhere

There are 10 sub species of White-browed Scrubwren in Australia. This 1 is another ssp that I hadn't yet seen before.


Superb Fairywren

A not so focused photo of a Silvereye.

Fan-tailed Cuckoo

Musk Lorikeet were in the eucalypt trees in the caravan park.

We drove into Coffin Bay National Park for a day trip. We stopped at several places to explore the NP. Most of the NP is accessible only by 4WD with access along beaches. A smaller general access area is on bitumen which includes a nice camp ground.

Another photo of White-browed Scrubwren showing it's striated breast.

Black-eared Cuckoo

We drove to the Point Avoid area & Golden Island Lookout.
Osprey on it's nest in the distance

I could see little birds running back & forth with the waves down on the distant Almonta Beach.
We had to walk over a sand dune & down some steps to get down to the beach, but it was worth the effort as as suspected, these birds were Sanderlings a new bird to my life list.


On our way to Port Lincoln we stopped on a side road for me to take a quick look at Big Swamp.
The swamp is quite large & there is also another lake on the other side of the main road.
There were plenty of variety of waterfowl on the water & using the muddy lake edges including distant Blue-billed Ducks. I also saw Musk Ducks on the water & a Wood Sandpiper on the muddy edge. I left deciding that I'd like to return if I could.

Last time we were in Lincoln National Park I decided that if we return I'd like to camp in the NP.
We parked the caravan in a pre booked spot in Surfleeet Cove camp ground, which is almost 2/3 way down the length on the NP.

Cape Donnington is at the eastern most tip of Lincoln NP & is accessed by a good dirt road.
In the heath near the lighthouse were a family of Blue-breasted Fairywren.


I was hoping for Rock Parrots to fly back & forth from Donnington Island, a short distance off the coast. I saw a couple flying overhead & calling as they flew to the island.
We called into September Beach on our way out & much to my surprise I found about 9 Rock Parrots feeding on the ground.

Also at September Beach were a pair of Hooded Plovers.

Also there was a Grey Currawong

We stopped at several bays along the coastline of Lincoln NP. There's Little Pied, Black-faced & Pied Cormorants there - 3 left side birds.

The next morning I took a drive back towards Pillie Lake. I stopped at a couple of places along the route as several birds were flying across the road in front of the car. The vegetation along this strip of road is medium height heath.

Not far into the walk I saw Southern Scrub-robin that was quite curious with my presence.

Australian Ringneck

I stopped at Pillie Lake to walk in search for Western Whipbird. It is now a new split called Black-throated Whipbird on IOC listing. I could hear a bird calling well away from the track & towards the mallee bush.
I traipsed through fairly thick mallee & vine scrub towards the calls.
I eventually located 2 birds. They were quite skittish though & fortuitously 1 of the birds worked it's way to the top of some vine covered mallee. I had just seconds to grab a couple of photos before it dived into the mallee again.


Whilst walking another area that day I saw a Horsfield's Bronze-cuckoo.

Pied Oystercatcher on the beach at Port Lincoln NP

We moved camp again back to Port Lincoln. Hubby was having a game of golf the next day & I decided to drive the 20 kms back to Big Swamp.
The weather had deteriorated during the evening before & the day for hubby golf & my birding was wind gusts up to 72 kms / hr.

I stayed at Big Swamp to bird despite the extremely windy conditions. There were waves on the lakes water. The skies were quite grey with threatening showers.
Despite the terrible weather I stayed there & had a great several hours birding.

Female Australian Shelduck.

male Aust shelduck

On the property next to the larger water body were a dozen Cape Barren Geese.

Black Swan

I had seen 1 Wood Sandpiper 3 days earlier & was quite pleased I saw 3 of them this time & was able to get closer views this time.

There were several Musk Ducks on the lake.


Australasian Shoveler

White-necked Heron, with a Musk Duck in the background.

The next day I located Blue-breasted Fairywrens along a coastal walk in Port Lincoln.

We left the southern end of Eyre Peninsula & commenced our drive NE towards Port Augusta again.
The coast line is quite different to the western coast of the Eyre Peninsula.
We called into Arno Boardwalk at Arno Bay.

Red-kneed Dotterel.

A section of the Arno Boardwalk. Also there were just a handful of Sharp-tailed Sandpipers.

We arrived a Whyalla for a few days.
There's a wetland / lake on the western edge of town that I spent a couple of hours walking around whilst hubby played another game of golf.

Hoary-headed Grebe

There were at least 110 Black-tailed Native-hens in several groups around the grounds.

Also there were 3 Whiskered Terns.

I drove north of town for 10 kms looking for Western Grasswrens. I had a glimpse of the W Grasswren with no photo & a new specie to my life list.
I located a family of Slender-billed Thronbills.


Also there in the roadside bushes were Splendid Fairywrens.

I visited Ironstone Conservation Park in the hope of locating more Western Grasswrens. Not a peep was heard, but plenty of fairywrens were seen & heard.

White-browed Babblers were there.

So too was Brown-headed Honeyeaters.

Very early the next morning we drove back to Lake Gilles CP for me to try to locate Copperback Quail-thrush. None were flushed from the side of the road on the drive to there & after traipsing around 2 areas of the CP over 5 hrs, I failed to see the target bird.

I did see a pair of Western Yellow Robins near their youngster. I rather think that the bird fell out of it's nest rather than being ready to fly.

Parent Western Yellow Robin

Red-capped Robin.

We drove to Port Augusta for hubby to take the car for a  service. All Toyoto services were booked out for 6 wks in Whyalla, so we decided to drive the 75 kms to have it serviced there.
I was dropped off at Arid Lands Botanical Gardens to spend a few hrs there.

I finally located the Black Honeyeater that had been reported there for quite some time.

I revisited Whyalla CP in the hope of location Western Grasswren. Another fail.

2 Bluebonnets flew into a tree 60 m away though.

Nankeen Kestrel finished off our Eyre Peninsula visit.

We left the Eyre Peninsula & drove through Port Augusta towards the Yorke Peninsula, so see the next chapter.



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